Classic Car Times
November 2005 Edition
 

Letters to the Editor


The Editor,

Regarding your article on the Daimler Dart restoration, I have a Series B Dart which is being restored at the moment and am experiencing problems with painting the bodywork.

The car has been sprayed twice and each time various bubbles appear on the paintwork when exposed to daylight.

Do you know anyone who could give me information on what could be causing this and how to resolve the problem as this is becoming a very expensive process?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
    Steve


You are using the wrong primer or you are not using any. Generally this is caused by volatiles escaping to the surface - painting too soon.

    Hersh


Hi there,

Just read the article on bubbling paint work on a SP250, I might be able to help.

I too own a SP250 and know Esmomd Tearle.

I was talking to a guy who just had the same problem as the letter which has been sent into you. He said,the body needed to be dehumidified, or dried out for at least a week before spraying. What happens is very small droplets of water get into and down the fibres of the glass bodywork. With this done he then resprayed the body and bingo, no trouble since.

This might only be a pointer but some thing to think about.

Good luck,
    Simon Billingham


'Steve' would do well to post his question about painting SP 250s on the DLCENTRE forum. Es has the URL.

    Rodger


This sounds like micro blisters and is caused by water in your air supply or spraying onto primer when flatted wet.

Solutions put a water trap device in your airline to capture moisture or ensure surface is thoroughly dry after flatting.

Spraying when air is moist especialy with celllulose paint can cause these microblisters.

    John


When you spray a car it is very important that the car is completely dry before spraying as any moisture, both on the car and in the air, can get trapped below the paint and can appear even years later as small bubbles of water under the paint. This usually happens after a cold damp day in the winter. It is also good practice to put a water trap in the hose to the spray gun to also help remove water. When spraying I always choose a very warm day to spray and also I make sure the car has been left out in the direct sun for at least 1/2 a day before painting as this will dry out any trapped moisture.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
    Nige


I think you may have release agent/oil/trapped in gel coat and must thoroughly degrease first.

Alternatively was your car sprayed with"synthetic" at some stage? Try an isolating coat of paint first.

Lastly I thought you were meant to etch prime grp first (check with paint rep).

Regards,
    Ernie


If these take the form of micro pin like blisters these are caused by water in the airline or spraying the topcoat after flatting the primer wet. Primer should be flatted dry.

If the blisters are large this is bad preperation and caused by non adhesion of the paint primer.

What paint are you using i.e. cellulose/base and lacquer/coach paint?

You can put paint on the top of cellulose but not the other way round. My son is a car sprayer by trade and if you have further queries contact me (via this site) and I will pass them on to him.

Regards,
    John


If you think you can help Steve then write to the editor at editor@classiccartimes.co.uk or get in touch via the contact us page and we will forward all messages.

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